Allen Meadows - Burghound.com - évalue notre millésime 2014
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2014 Bourgogne-Aligoté Sous Le Chemin: A spicy and overtly citrus-inflected nose introduces delicious and solidly well- concentrated middle weight flavors that possess a lovely sense of energy along with good minerality on the lingering finish. This attractive and forward effort should drink well almost immediately. 86/2017+
2014 Bourgogne Hautes Coutures: (from Meursault fruit). There is an interesting hint of petrol on the otherwise fresh and pretty aromas of green apple and floral scents. There is a really lovely texture to the seductive, round and utterly delicious flavors that possess particularly good mid-palate concentration in the context of what this is, all wrapped in a saline-inflected finale that delivers very fine depth and length. An excellent Bourgogne worthy of your interest. 87/2018+
2014 Meursault Vieilles Vignes: Very mild reduction doesn’t completely mask the citrus, floral and white-fleshed fruit aromas. There is fine intensity to the well-detailed and impressively concentrated middle weight flavors that evidence plenty of stone influence on the attractively lingering and balanced finish where a hint of bitter lemon arises. This is a powerful, indeed even old school Meursault villages that is going to need at least a few years of bottle age. Recommended provided that you have the patience to wait. 89/2021+
2014 Chablis Les Lys: Here the restrained nose is cool, airy and elegant with ultra-pure aromas of lemon, iodine, sea breeze, oyster shell and the plenty of floral influence. The intensely mineral-driven and well-delineated flavors possess a lacy, even delicate mouth feel before terminating in a notably saline, dry and clean but not austere finale. This is textbook Les Lys that should drink well almost immediately yet reward a few years of cellar time too. Lovely stuff. 91/2019+
2014 Chablis Vaudésir: As one would reasonably expect this is somewhat riper than the Les Lys with its subtly exotic aromas of white peach, seaweed and tidal pool nuances. There is a good deal more size, power and concentration to the intense broad-shouldered flavors that possess first-rate complexity and terrific persistence on the balanced and sappy finale. This will be less forthcoming young but not so much so that it won’t be approachable until it peaks. 93/2021+
2014 Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanée: As is often the case with a fine La Romanée there is a touch of the exotic in evidence on the exceptionally fresh mix of white orchard fruit aromas that include white peach, apple and pear, all of which are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The detailed, precise and tension-filled medium-bodied and generously proportioned flavors really vibrate plus the discreet minerality adds a bit of lift as well to the firm and notably dry finish. This is really quite good and in particular I like the overall sense of harmony. 92/2021+
2014 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets: A judicious application of wood does not detract from the attractiveness of the equally exotic aromas of orange peel, white peach and mineral reduction that display floral and spicy top notes. There is excellent concentration and intensity to the racy and overtly mineral-driven yet seductively textured medium weight plus flavors that culminate in a clean and explosive finish that is both dry and hugely long. This is really quite impressive plus the sappy dry extract should allow it to be approached on the younger side if desired. 93/2022+
2014 Meursault Tessons: (from vines planted in 1964 and aged in 20% new wood). In contrast to the prior wines that exhibited mild levels of reduction this is very firmly reduced so if you’re going to try a bottle young be sure to decant it first. Like the Caillerets there is excellent concentration and power to the beautifully detailed, indeed chiseled, flavors that possess a positively gorgeous texture on the superbly well-balanced finale. It’s rare to find villages level wines of this caliber and the ’14 Tessons is highly recommended. 91/2021+
2014 Meursault Les Cras: (from yields of only 14 hl/ha in 2014). A cool and appealingly fresh nose is comprised by notes of citrus, apple and a hint of pear along with nuances of hazelnut and grilled almonds. There is a lovely texture to the impressively intense and delineated medium weight flavors that are more evidently mineral-driven on the linear, focused and sneaky long finish. In contrast to some of the wines in the range this is going to require a few years of cellar time to further flesh out as it’s borderline lean today. 91/2022+
2014 Meursault Charmes du Dessus: Very mild reduction does not materially detract from the restrained nose of acacia blossom, citrus and white orchard fruit aromas that include pear and apple. There is excellent size, weight and mid-palate concentration to the highly energetic middle weight flavors that also terminate in a clean, dry and linear finish that is presently slightly austere. This is also clearly going to need a few years of cellaring to allow it to further flesh out but it should be magnificent in time. 93/2024+
2014 Meursault Bouches Chères: (note that the domaine uses the old spelling for Bouchères). An airy and exceptionally pretty array of floral, pear, apple and citrus nuances are framed by a deft application of wood. There is a wonderfully delicate mouth feel to the refined and beautifully textured medium weight flavors that exhibit a fine bead of minerality on the balanced and lingering finale that is ever-so-mildly austere at present. Textbook juice. 92/2022+
2014 Meursault Goutte d’Or: Like the La Romanée and Vaudésir this too manifests a hint of the exotic with its ripe nose of mostly white and yellow orchard fruits that offer tangerine peel and pekoe tea nuances. There is plenty of mouth coating dry extract that really fills out the mid-palate of the full-bodied flavors that possess both outstanding volume and ample power, all wrapped in a textured, balanced and lingering if mildly austere finish. The concentration is impressive and this powerful effort should amply reward extended keeping if desired. 93/2022+
2014 Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets: Here there are no such exotic aromas but rather those that are much more floral in character with cool citrus, tea, spice and wet stone nuances. Once again there is outstanding concentration and mid-palate density to the medium weight flavors as the abundant level of dry extract completely coats the mouth and buffers the firm acid spine shaping the intensely mineral-driven finish that delivers absolutely first-rate depth and length. This is at once concentrated yet classy and almost delicate in its delivery. Lovely. 93/2022+
2014 Corton-Charlemagne: (from Le Charlemagne). Once again there is a discreet hint of the exotic present on the otherwise fresh, cool and admirably pure floral, green fruit and wet stone scents. The palate impression though is entirely classic with restrained and intensely mineral-driven broad-shouldered and overtly muscular flavors that possess excellent volume and plenty of energy before really fanning out on the firm, balanced and ever-so-slightly austere finale. This appears to possess terrific development potential and it’s clearly going to require at least 5 to 6 years just to get rolling while amply reward 10 to 12. Patience. 93/2024+