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Les 2011 évalués par Allen Meadows de Burghound.com

Publié le par Site internet officiel du Domaine Buisson-Charles

Allen Meadows’ 3rd Quarter, 2013 Issue 51

B U R G H O U N D . C O M® The Ultimate Burgundy Reference

This 5.5 ha domaine, of which 25% of its production is in red, is directed by 4th generation Michel Buisson, his daughter Catherine and son-in-law Patrick Essa. Essa told me that it was “already clear by the month of May that the harvest was going to be an exceptionally early one. What was perhaps just as remarkable however was that we also knew quite early on that we would have a high degree of phenolic ripeness accompanied by relatively low potential alcohols. This is unusual, not only because we could predict it early on rather than only a few days before the harvest but also that we had this conjunction of high phenolic ripeness levels with low alcohols. This just doesn’t happen all that often. The chardonnay started to turn golden around the 15th of August and the best parcels had potential alcohols in the 10.5 to 11% range. Then we had a lot of rainfall between the 18th and 20th which caused the fruit to swell and diluted the potential alcohols. It took the vines a week to 10 days to concentrate the sugars and we began picking on the 31st of August bringing in relatively clean fruit that required a bit of sorting but nothing really serious. Potential alcohols averaged between 12 and 12.5%. From the standpoint of the handling of the fruit and the fermentations, the whites required great care and precision. You had to press softly and slowly as well as do a thorough lees settling. In the case of the former, you didn’t want to extract anything that wasn’t ripe and/or pure. And in the case of the latter, you wanted to again be absolutely certain that you didn’t have anything in your musts that shouldn’t be there. Then it was necessary to add sulfur only at the precise times and in the minimum amounts necessary. The good news is that if you did these things it was possible to make excellent wines that are going to surprise many people. I don’t mean to say that 2011 produced truly great wines but they are much better than simply good.” Essa also noted that the domaine has moved to stamping its corks with all of the relevant information. I have noted this before but the quality coming out of this domaine in recent years is nothing short of spectacular and if you enjoy classically styled age-worthy whites then these will definitely appeal to you. The whites were bottled without fining or filtration in December, 2012 and January 2013. Note that the two Chassagne 1ers are négociant wines. I would agree with Essa’s general take on the vintage and the domaine in my view clearly outperformed the general quality of the vintage. (Vintner Select, www.vintnerselect.com, Cincinnati, OH, Milton Road Trading Corp, LLC, www.miltonroadtrading.com, Napa CA, Scott Paul Wines, www.scottpaul.com, Portland, OR; Richards Walford, www.r-w.co.uk, HS Liquid Assets, www.hsliquid.com and Roberson Wine, www.roberson.co.uk, all UK).

2011 Bourgogne-Aligoté: An exuberantly spicy nose of very fresh citrus and orchard fruit scents leads to energetic and noticeably saline-infused flavors that culminate in a clean, very dry and crisp finish. This is a fine example of the genre and one that should drink well almost immediately. 86/2014+

2011 Bourgogne: There is a very mild hint of the exotic to the otherwise fresh and cool floral and citrus aromas. There is good concentration and fine volume to the delicious, round and vibrant middle weight flavors that possess notably better depth and length than the average example. Lovely and recommended plus this will age if desired. 87/2015+

2011 Meursault Vieilles Vignes: A ripe but cool nose features notes of pear, white peach, citrus and hazelnut. There is good cut and vibrancy to the delicious and solidly well-concentrated middle weight flavors that terminate in a very crisp, dry, detailed and lingering finish. The old vines are very much in evidence and this is one to definitely consider. 89/2017+

2011 Chassagne-Montrachet “En Remilly”: A completely different aromatic profile is present here with hints of resin, citrus peel, exotic tea and floral scents. There is a fine sense of underlying tension to the delicious, intense and well-detailed flavors that really fan out on the mouth coating, balanced and attractively mineral-inflected finish. 90/2016+

2011 Chassagne-Montrachet “La Romanée”: There is a discreet but still visible touch of wood influence to the ripe, spicy and exotic nose that displays fine complexity on the dried yellow fruit scents. There is fine mid-palate concentration to the round, supple and opulent medium-bodied flavors that deliver equally fine depth on the balanced and persistent finish. This is really quite stylish. 92/2017+

2011 Meursault “Tessons”: (from vines planted in 1964 and aged in 20% new wood). A hint of mineral reduction adds breadth to the fresh, ripe and cool aromas of just sliced orchard fruit and hazelnut. There is really lovely purity to the saline- infused medium weight flavors that exude a fine minerality on the precise, harmonious and impeccably well-balanced finish. This is a terrific villages and recommended. 90/2017+

2011 Meursault “Les Cras”: This is slightly riper than the Tessons yet the nose remains cool and fresh with well-layered aromas of apple, pear and white flowers. There is excellent volume to the solidly concentrated and mineral-inflected medium weight flavors that possess fine energy on the ever-so-mildly austere and persistent finish. There is a firm acid spine and this should reward 6 to 8 years of cellar time. 91/2017+

2011 Meursault “Charmes”: This is one of the more interesting wines in the range with its nose of mandarin orange, pickled ginger and exotic yellow fruit aromas. Here too there is fine volume and mid-palate density to the middle weight flavors that coat the mouth before culminating in a delicious, clean, dry and saline-infused finish. The dry and crisp finish is in marked contrast to the naturally sweet mid-palate. While not exactly classic in style, this is lovely all the same. 92/2018+

2011 Meursault “Bouches-Chères”: (note that the domaine uses the old spelling for Bouchères). A strikingly elegant, pure and restrained nose displays essence of citrus, stone and green apple aromas. There is superb detail to the intense and broad-shouldered flavors that coat the palate with dry extract, all wrapped in a delicious yet serious lemon-infused finish. This highly understated and impeccably well-balanced effort is both stylish and classy. 93/2018+

2011 Meursault “Goutte d’Or”: There is enough reduction present to knock down the nose but it clearly appears to be ripe. There is more volume and power to the medium weight plus flavors that enjoy impressive mid-palate concentration as well as plenty of palate coating extract. The lingering and balanced finish is quite firm as the supporting acidity and subtle minerality shape the backend yet the mouth feel is distinctly different from that of the Bouches-Chères. A qualitative choice but both are terrific in their own ways. 93/2018+

2011 Corton-Charlemagne: (from Aloxe). A deft application of wood sets off cool, admirably pure and restrained aromas of green apple, white peach and mineral reduction. There is excellent richness to the overtly powerful and muscular flavors that are concentrated to the point of being unctuous yet the firm supporting acidity maintains a fine sense of balance on the palate staining finish. I very much like the depth and this could surprise to the upside. 93/2019+

Allen Meadows:

I have noted this before but the quality coming out of this domaine in recent years is nothing short of spectacular and if you enjoy classically styled age-worthy whites then these will definitely appeal to you. I would agree with Essa’s general take on the vintage and the domaine in my view clearly outperformed the general quality of the vintage.

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Les 2011: Notes Du domaine

Publié le par Site internet officiel du Domaine Buisson-Charles

Bourgogne Aligoté 2011: La parcelle "Sous le Chemin" est située sur Meursault dans une zone argileuse bien draînée. Les plants ont plus de 50 ans et produisent peu.Nous avons produit 4500 bouteilles de ce vin et il a été élevé et vinifié uniquement en cuve. En 2011 il faisait naturellment 11°7 et je ne l'ai pas chapalisé comme tous mes autres vins. Mis en bouteille après 16 mois d'élevage. C'est un vin gourmand qui est marqué par un milieu de bouche assez souple et qui termine sur une acidité fraîche. Sans doute est-il marqué par le terroir de Meursault autant que par l'aligoté.

Bourgogne Chardonnay 2011: c'est une nouvelle cuvée qui est produite dans la partie haute du lieu-dit Coutures sous les Limozin. Un des meilleurs emplacement de Bourgogne pour le chardonnay je pense.La vigne a trente ans et est taillée en cordon de royat pour moins produire. Elevé à moitié en cuve et à moitié en fûts de deux ans. Le vin est riche et centré aromatiquement sur des notes de fruits blancs. Il est sans doute déjà parfaitement près à être servi. Un "petit" Meursault dans mon esprit. 1150 bouteilles produites.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2011: Lui aussi provient des hautes Coutures dans la partie médiane du lieu-dit qui est plus argileuse et convient mieux au pinot. Des plants très fins ayant plus de 50 ans donnent un vin fruité et gourmand qui est élevé avec le même soin que nos crus, uniquement en fûts dont 20 % de bois neufs. C'est un Bourgogne qui sent la fraise des bois et la framboise et qui est construit sur une acidité rafraîchissante. Sa texture est souple car je préfère les vins délicats aux vins tanniques et puissants. J'en ai produit 4500 bouteilles en 2011 sur environ 85 ares

Pommard " En Chiveau" 2011: Village de plein coteau exposé au nord Est, la vigne a été plantée en 1984. Elle donne des vins très fruités qui sentent souvent la cerise et le chocolat amer. Un vin frais et accessible qui peut se boire jeune ou vieillir. Petite production de 1350 bouteillles..

Volnay-Santenots 2011: 1350 bouteilles produites dans ce cru qui est vraiment d'une grande régularité. Jamais très coloré mais toujours très fin et délicat, il a en 2011 une texture de velours et s'exprime sur les fruits rouges. Une gourmandise...

Meursault VV 2011: Les vignes ont entre 45 et 95 ans et le vin est un "mélange" de six parcelles différentes : Vireuils, Meix Chavaux, Pellands, Marcausses, Millerands et Vignes Blanches.J'ai produit 7800 bouteilles de ce vin sur 2.2 hectares en sélectionnant uniquement les vignes les plus agées. 2011 est une année élégante qui va bien à ce vin toujours très concentré qui demande deux années de bouteilles pour être à son meilleur. Elevé en fûts dont 25% de bois neufs il est sans doute le Meursault le plus dense que je produis et bénéficie des caractères des six lieux-dits qui le composent. Un de mes favoris dans ce millésime pour sa pureté et sa longueur.

Meursault "Tessons"2011: C'est je pense le meilleur lieu-dit de Meursault en classement "village". Vin très subtil et floral, il se livre un peu plus vite que les crus et se montre vraiment selon le profil que j'apprécie dans ce millésime. Assez discret au nez de prime abord, il en impose par sa bouche pleine et longue qui embaume la poire et le chèvrefeuille. Vin délicat et racé, il est souvent très proche d'un premier cru. 2100 bouteilles produites sur 35 ares.

Meursault Charmes 2011: toute petite parcelle qui donne à peine 1500 bouteilles par an et qui a environ 45 ans. Elevé avec 25 % de bois neufs. C'est un vin aromatique, riche et structuré qui donne un vin toujours très concentré et puissant. Très agréable pour son aspect "ouvert" lorsqu'il est jeune, il est en 2011 l'un des plus fins que nous ayons produit ces 20 dernières années.

Meursault Goutte d'Or 2011: Sans doute l'un des crus les plus riches de Bourgogne avec une densité qui le rapproche de Perrières. C'est un vin minéral et très pur qui sent toujours le tilleul et la fleur de vigne. En 2011 il est sans doute le plus long des premiers crus que j'ai produit mais il doit impérativement être attendu au moins 3 ans pour être parfaitement près à boire. 2400 bouteilles produites.

Meursault Bouches-Chères 2011: Le cru le plus élégant de Meursault je crois et sans doute aussi le plus floral. Vin ouvert et près, il se livre déjà sans problème mais gagnera encore à vieillir car il se complexifiera. Le cru qui ressemble sans doute le plus à l'image que l'on se fait du Meursault. 2400 bouteilles produites.

Les 2011: Notes Du domaine

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