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Bill Nanson (Burgundy Report) évalue nos 2014 et +...

Publié le par Site internet officiel du Domaine Buisson-Charles

Bill Nanson (Burgundy Report) évalue nos 2014 et +...

Tasted in Meursault with Patrick Essa, 16 October, 2015.
Domaine Buisson-Charles

Patrick on 2015:
“Really excellent. It was a super harvest and I hope with great wines to follow. For harvesting it’s not a question of acidity; the first people started 23rd August, others the 5th or 6th of September – such a gap is really rare. I think there should be great wines for the patient. Here we began harvesting our reds on the 5th, and our whites on 6th – we finished on the 13th. Despite even (in the end) 13.2° for our Bourgogne Rouge, I had very regular fermentations.”

Patrick on 2014:
“2014 is really a very good vintage; very concentrated too. The reds were picked in the last days of September and the whites into October. Only 22 hl/ha though, hence the concentration. A great year, and the whites are better than the reds. If 2013 is about finesse, then 2014 complex and dense. Reduction and agrume flavours are easy, I want white flowers, that takes care.”
Patrick on pricing 2014s:
Prices will probably go up by about 2-3%. You can’t actually sell for half the price of your neighbours, but I like to try to keep things real.
The wines…

All the wines had already been fined today, so timing was not perfect, yet the wines were on great form….
2014 Bourgogne Aligoté
A small harvest with 12.5° natural and no rot. Was fermented in barrel and is now in tank.

2014 Bourgogne Chardonnay
From vines with the boundaries of Meursault.
Perfumed modestly high-toned. Big, round, a softness yet a nice energy too. Expands very finely in the mid-palate, followed by a lovely wide, tasty finishing flavour. Yum!

2014 Meursault Vieilles-Vignes
A weight and a very fine width of perfume here. Lithe, concentrated, very good minerality at the base, and with super texture – really excellent!

2014 Meursault Tessons
Fresh if a little closed. Finer acidity more direct shape and delivery of flavour – gorgeous fruit intensity borne on great acidity in the mid-palate – gorgeous. The finish is more subtle than the vieilles vignes but a great wine also.

2014 Chablis 1er Les Lys
No new oak, 14 months elevage, to be bottled in December. These grapes came from very old vines – for Chablis – 60…
Very fine, citrus and rock nose. Wide, a hint of gas, mouth-wrapping texture. The acid- borne minerality comes through halfway through the mp. Super!

2014 Chablis Vaudesir
More weight of concentrated but still fresh aroma – white flowers. Much more mineral, almost shavings of rock here, intense yet padded, direct and long – excellent – and just beautiful in the finish.

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Romanée
Both aromatic depth and height – really appealingly complex. Just one of the three barrels are new and there is some aroma from this for now, but it’s not excessive. Wide, mineral, ‘wow’ complexity not super concentrated, but doesn’t need to be. Really super wine.

2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets
Tighter aroma, yet wide. Pretty yet also modest. Fuller yet wider, fresh and complex – again. Mouth-watering in the finish. This should be special.

2014 Meursault 1er Les Charmes
Here and Pellans wasn’t hailed, so a normal yield. Have finally bought the metayage parcel that they exploited for a number of years.
A silky, wide wall of aroma, yet fresh, not oppressive, almost a clean freshness. Really not so round, rather mineral and beautifully textured, gorgeously minerally complex. Beautifully finishing.

2014 Corton-Charlemagne
Made from Aloxe fruit in Charlemagne. Direct south-facing, close to the cross.
A ripe core of fruit, a growing freshness above too. Very clean aromas – like a 2010. Volume in the mouth, indeed muscle, but beautifully, packaged texture. The finishing flavours are of mineral and faint sweetness. Here with a later reprise of flavour. Yum!

The reds…

2014 Bourgogne Rouge
From two vines; one Meursault Coutures, and the other Puligny Champans 20% new oak..
Bright open pinot fruit, also of depth. Fresh but with complex energy. Dark but floral fruit here, lovely width. Excellent!

2014 Volnay 1er Les Santenots
The fruit from 70 year-old vines. 30% whole cluster here.
Way more depth and a little more weight. Fresh and intense – no space here for richness or extraneous texture, just a lovely deep flavour that expands and expands. This will be super.
And just to see ourselves into the weekend:

And +...

2013 Bourgogne Chardonnay
20% new oak.
Some width, a little more weight. Excellent texture, silky, almost rich but with a supporting acidity that is pretty perfect. Very tasty.

2013 Meursault Vieilles-Vignes
Beautiful, complex not so overt but fine Meursault. Liquid concentrate of Meursault, super finishing, really a modest wine but with finely balanced complexity. Yum!

2013 Meursault 1er Bouches Chères
A little aromatic weight here, yet essentially still a wine of some discretion. Here, a more direct mineral flavour, that’s first linear, then explodes with mouth-mouth-watering acidity.

2012 Chablis Vaudesir
18 month elevage in old wood.
Deep, complex, finely focused. Wide, transparent, wonderfully intense, lovely, fine finishing with a hint of mouth-watering sweetness.

2008 Meursault Tessons
There’s a suggestion of something deep but it’s never in full view. This is a modestly fresh almost minted nose. Silky, lithe, mineral – very mineral – opens wide with fine mouth-watering filigree flavour. I’d say still something of a baby. Excellent and a treat!

Publié dans Revue de Presse

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Les 2014 du domaine évalués par Sarah Marsh de Burgundy Briefing (In english)

Publié le par Site internet officiel du Domaine Buisson-Charles

Les 2014 du domaine évalués par Sarah Marsh de Burgundy Briefing (In english)

Patrick Essa recalls the season: “We have just 23hl/ha as we had hail in all plots. The wines have great concentration and for the vines which suffered hail, the fermentation was very slow taking place over 8 months with the MLF and maybe 10 for some premier cru.” “The pneumatic press worked well with the small grapes. We work slowly at not above 1.8 bar. Not much juice. Many flavins on the skin of the white and for this reason lots of texture, like tannins.” “In 2014 I worked with the lees; after debourbage we have just the fine lees and the juice is quite clean…it settles for 24 to 48 hours. I like to take my time. It was essential for me to observe the quality of the lees.

I work with 3 parts when I put into the barrels…all have a third first etc, so each barrel has the same lees. I want no reduction in any barrel.” I think the selection in the vineyards is essential for the expression of these wines. When we have no botrytis and the level of sugar at 13 degrees with great concentration it was possible to make wine with high quality. This is in the pursuit of a wine which is very pure and clean. No pumping only moving by gravity.” No pesticides in the vineyards for 20 years and no chemical treatments since 1996.

The samples are a blend of all casks with 20% of new oak for all wines and no new oak for the two barrels of Corton-Charlemagne. “I like real minerality, not reduction, mineral like iodine in the mid palate and salt on the end.” “You must take you time with this wine. Drink your 2011 or your 2007 first.” “It is a mix of the concentration of 2010, but without the botrytis.

2014 is a unique vintage for me. The hail and the quality of the harvest and the harvest..perhaps 1966 and 1955, but more like 1966.” Patrick’s wines have incredible level of concentration in this vintage. They are rich. It is not really typical of the vintage, which is ripe, but not this level of ‘super’ concentration. He clearly had very low yields. The thick skins give a kind of tannin; the wines have a lot of texture which emphasises the richness, and the minerality in his terroir gives the balance and freshness to the end of the palate. These are wines which will need quite some time in bottle.

*Meursault, Vieilles Vignes 6 different vineyards for a ‘round cuvée’ from the village. This is rounded; rich and incredibly concentrated. Full and succulent with a firm line of minerality coming under this enormously concentrated fruit supporting the palate to the finish. From 2019

*Meursault, Les Tessons 1/3 of a hectare in the southern part of the vineyards, “rockier soil with red soil,” says Patrick, The vines are 50 years old. 23 hl/ha and uses only used barrels from Burgundy forest, oak seasoned for 4 years and coopered in Hermitage. Elegant wine. Wonderfully supple and satin rich, very textured; the fruit is white peach and white flowers. The minerality here is smooth stone. It flows onto the finish. Once again this has a high level of concentration, combined here excellent typicity. Score 17. From 2019

Meursault, Les Cras “¼ hectare in front of their Volnay Santenots. Lots of small white stone and a sunny exposure. 6-8 barrels, just one this year. This is tight and stony on the palate; you sense the cold soil. A savoury mineral and tannic bite to the palate; a grip and a tension. The rich texture is all wine and lees, no new oak; two year old oaks. It is both warm and rich and cold. Sappy, minerals on the finish. Score 18. From 2020

Chassagne-Montrachet, La Romanée (negoce) High toned aroma..white flowers. On the palate this is very pure. It is lifted and high toned and very elegant. The upper part is fresher and a percentage of clay in the middle part so you get the richness and the acidity. Lovely long and mineral finish. Score 18. From 2019

*Meursault, Charmes Upper part, just under Perrières. Twenty year old vineyards..these are his vines now as he purchased this year. It is concentrated, but not so much as the first two wine, or the next two. This glides onto the palate. It is not so extravagant. it is more understated. There is a silky refinement. There is saltiness under the palate and on the finish. Score 18.35. From 2014

“This is the expression I love for my wines. You smell the spring water. Not so exuberant, but perfect.”

Meursault, Les Bouches-Chères Here the vines are 72 years old. This is spicy and perfumed. At first the palate is delicate, with light spice, but it grows full and rich, concentrated and rounded. It is rich and full; it is not picked first, but last and at 13.4. It has plenty aromatics on the finish. 2 of the 10 barrels. 14 hl/ha. “I didn’t think we would make any this year.

“If Boucheres is a gymnast Gouttes d’Or is a rugby player.”

*Meursault, La Goutte d’Or This is coiled and concentrated on the aroma. Rich strike. Dense and tight and compact. Tiny production. This has muscle and tannin and tension. This is rich and there is acidity coming through. Bunched and with amazing concentration here. Good typicite for this should be a rich and burly wine. Score 18.45. From 2020

Corton-Charlemagne Le Charlemagne. 82 year old vineyards (Negoce) This is pure and tight and straight and channelled. It is a sunny exposure…and has a sweetness to the fruit. It was harvested before the Meursault. This is high toned and very pure, very elegant and it has firm minerality and excellent tension. Lovely long finish. Score 19.25. From 2022/25

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