Bill Nanson (Burgundy Report) évalue nos 2014 et +...

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Bill Nanson (Burgundy Report) évalue nos 2014 et +...

Tasted in Meursault with Patrick Essa, 16 October, 2015.
Domaine Buisson-Charles

Patrick on 2015:
“Really excellent. It was a super harvest and I hope with great wines to follow. For harvesting it’s not a question of acidity; the first people started 23rd August, others the 5th or 6th of September – such a gap is really rare. I think there should be great wines for the patient. Here we began harvesting our reds on the 5th, and our whites on 6th – we finished on the 13th. Despite even (in the end) 13.2° for our Bourgogne Rouge, I had very regular fermentations.”


Patrick on 2014:
“2014 is really a very good vintage; very concentrated too. The reds were picked in the last days of September and the whites into October. Only 22 hl/ha though, hence the concentration. A great year, and the whites are better than the reds. If 2013 is about finesse, then 2014 complex and dense. Reduction and agrume flavours are easy, I want white flowers, that takes care.”
Patrick on pricing 2014s:
Prices will probably go up by about 2-3%. You can’t actually sell for half the price of your neighbours, but I like to try to keep things real.
The wines…


All the wines had already been fined today, so timing was not perfect, yet the wines were on great form….
2014 Bourgogne Aligoté
A small harvest with 12.5° natural and no rot. Was fermented in barrel and is now in tank.


2014 Bourgogne Chardonnay
From vines with the boundaries of Meursault.
Perfumed modestly high-toned. Big, round, a softness yet a nice energy too. Expands very finely in the mid-palate, followed by a lovely wide, tasty finishing flavour. Yum!


2014 Meursault Vieilles-Vignes
A weight and a very fine width of perfume here. Lithe, concentrated, very good minerality at the base, and with super texture – really excellent!


2014 Meursault Tessons
Fresh if a little closed. Finer acidity more direct shape and delivery of flavour – gorgeous fruit intensity borne on great acidity in the mid-palate – gorgeous. The finish is more subtle than the vieilles vignes but a great wine also.


2014 Chablis 1er Les Lys
No new oak, 14 months elevage, to be bottled in December. These grapes came from very old vines – for Chablis – 60…
Very fine, citrus and rock nose. Wide, a hint of gas, mouth-wrapping texture. The acid- borne minerality comes through halfway through the mp. Super!


2014 Chablis Vaudesir
More weight of concentrated but still fresh aroma – white flowers. Much more mineral, almost shavings of rock here, intense yet padded, direct and long – excellent – and just beautiful in the finish.


2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Romanée
Both aromatic depth and height – really appealingly complex. Just one of the three barrels are new and there is some aroma from this for now, but it’s not excessive. Wide, mineral, ‘wow’ complexity not super concentrated, but doesn’t need to be. Really super wine.


2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets
Tighter aroma, yet wide. Pretty yet also modest. Fuller yet wider, fresh and complex – again. Mouth-watering in the finish. This should be special.


2014 Meursault 1er Les Charmes
Here and Pellans wasn’t hailed, so a normal yield. Have finally bought the metayage parcel that they exploited for a number of years.
A silky, wide wall of aroma, yet fresh, not oppressive, almost a clean freshness. Really not so round, rather mineral and beautifully textured, gorgeously minerally complex. Beautifully finishing.


2014 Corton-Charlemagne
Made from Aloxe fruit in Charlemagne. Direct south-facing, close to the cross.
A ripe core of fruit, a growing freshness above too. Very clean aromas – like a 2010. Volume in the mouth, indeed muscle, but beautifully, packaged texture. The finishing flavours are of mineral and faint sweetness. Here with a later reprise of flavour. Yum!


The reds…


2014 Bourgogne Rouge
From two vines; one Meursault Coutures, and the other Puligny Champans 20% new oak..
Bright open pinot fruit, also of depth. Fresh but with complex energy. Dark but floral fruit here, lovely width. Excellent!


2014 Volnay 1er Les Santenots
The fruit from 70 year-old vines. 30% whole cluster here.
Way more depth and a little more weight. Fresh and intense – no space here for richness or extraneous texture, just a lovely deep flavour that expands and expands. This will be super.
And just to see ourselves into the weekend:

And +...


2013 Bourgogne Chardonnay
20% new oak.
Some width, a little more weight. Excellent texture, silky, almost rich but with a supporting acidity that is pretty perfect. Very tasty.


2013 Meursault Vieilles-Vignes
Beautiful, complex not so overt but fine Meursault. Liquid concentrate of Meursault, super finishing, really a modest wine but with finely balanced complexity. Yum!


2013 Meursault 1er Bouches Chères
A little aromatic weight here, yet essentially still a wine of some discretion. Here, a more direct mineral flavour, that’s first linear, then explodes with mouth-mouth-watering acidity.


2012 Chablis Vaudesir
18 month elevage in old wood.
Deep, complex, finely focused. Wide, transparent, wonderfully intense, lovely, fine finishing with a hint of mouth-watering sweetness.


2008 Meursault Tessons
There’s a suggestion of something deep but it’s never in full view. This is a modestly fresh almost minted nose. Silky, lithe, mineral – very mineral – opens wide with fine mouth-watering filigree flavour. I’d say still something of a baby. Excellent and a treat!

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Les 2014 du domaine évalués par Sarah Marsh de Burgundy Briefing (In english)

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Les 2014 du domaine évalués par Sarah Marsh de Burgundy Briefing (In english)

Patrick Essa recalls the season: “We have just 23hl/ha as we had hail in all plots. The wines have great concentration and for the vines which suffered hail, the fermentation was very slow taking place over 8 months with the MLF and maybe 10 for some premier cru.” “The pneumatic press worked well with the small grapes. We work slowly at not above 1.8 bar. Not much juice. Many flavins on the skin of the white and for this reason lots of texture, like tannins.” “In 2014 I worked with the lees; after debourbage we have just the fine lees and the juice is quite clean…it settles for 24 to 48 hours. I like to take my time. It was essential for me to observe the quality of the lees.

I work with 3 parts when I put into the barrels…all have a third first etc, so each barrel has the same lees. I want no reduction in any barrel.” I think the selection in the vineyards is essential for the expression of these wines. When we have no botrytis and the level of sugar at 13 degrees with great concentration it was possible to make wine with high quality. This is in the pursuit of a wine which is very pure and clean. No pumping only moving by gravity.” No pesticides in the vineyards for 20 years and no chemical treatments since 1996.

The samples are a blend of all casks with 20% of new oak for all wines and no new oak for the two barrels of Corton-Charlemagne. “I like real minerality, not reduction, mineral like iodine in the mid palate and salt on the end.” “You must take you time with this wine. Drink your 2011 or your 2007 first.” “It is a mix of the concentration of 2010, but without the botrytis.

2014 is a unique vintage for me. The hail and the quality of the harvest and the harvest..perhaps 1966 and 1955, but more like 1966.” Patrick’s wines have incredible level of concentration in this vintage. They are rich. It is not really typical of the vintage, which is ripe, but not this level of ‘super’ concentration. He clearly had very low yields. The thick skins give a kind of tannin; the wines have a lot of texture which emphasises the richness, and the minerality in his terroir gives the balance and freshness to the end of the palate. These are wines which will need quite some time in bottle.

*Meursault, Vieilles Vignes 6 different vineyards for a ‘round cuvée’ from the village. This is rounded; rich and incredibly concentrated. Full and succulent with a firm line of minerality coming under this enormously concentrated fruit supporting the palate to the finish. From 2019

*Meursault, Les Tessons 1/3 of a hectare in the southern part of the vineyards, “rockier soil with red soil,” says Patrick, The vines are 50 years old. 23 hl/ha and uses only used barrels from Burgundy forest, oak seasoned for 4 years and coopered in Hermitage. Elegant wine. Wonderfully supple and satin rich, very textured; the fruit is white peach and white flowers. The minerality here is smooth stone. It flows onto the finish. Once again this has a high level of concentration, combined here excellent typicity. Score 17. From 2019

Meursault, Les Cras “¼ hectare in front of their Volnay Santenots. Lots of small white stone and a sunny exposure. 6-8 barrels, just one this year. This is tight and stony on the palate; you sense the cold soil. A savoury mineral and tannic bite to the palate; a grip and a tension. The rich texture is all wine and lees, no new oak; two year old oaks. It is both warm and rich and cold. Sappy, minerals on the finish. Score 18. From 2020

Chassagne-Montrachet, La Romanée (negoce) High toned aroma..white flowers. On the palate this is very pure. It is lifted and high toned and very elegant. The upper part is fresher and a percentage of clay in the middle part so you get the richness and the acidity. Lovely long and mineral finish. Score 18. From 2019

*Meursault, Charmes Upper part, just under Perrières. Twenty year old vineyards..these are his vines now as he purchased this year. It is concentrated, but not so much as the first two wine, or the next two. This glides onto the palate. It is not so extravagant. it is more understated. There is a silky refinement. There is saltiness under the palate and on the finish. Score 18.35. From 2014

“This is the expression I love for my wines. You smell the spring water. Not so exuberant, but perfect.”

Meursault, Les Bouches-Chères Here the vines are 72 years old. This is spicy and perfumed. At first the palate is delicate, with light spice, but it grows full and rich, concentrated and rounded. It is rich and full; it is not picked first, but last and at 13.4. It has plenty aromatics on the finish. 2 of the 10 barrels. 14 hl/ha. “I didn’t think we would make any this year.

“If Boucheres is a gymnast Gouttes d’Or is a rugby player.”

*Meursault, La Goutte d’Or This is coiled and concentrated on the aroma. Rich strike. Dense and tight and compact. Tiny production. This has muscle and tannin and tension. This is rich and there is acidity coming through. Bunched and with amazing concentration here. Good typicite for this should be a rich and burly wine. Score 18.45. From 2020

Corton-Charlemagne Le Charlemagne. 82 year old vineyards (Negoce) This is pure and tight and straight and channelled. It is a sunny exposure…and has a sweetness to the fruit. It was harvested before the Meursault. This is high toned and very pure, very elegant and it has firm minerality and excellent tension. Lovely long finish. Score 19.25. From 2022/25

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Dernière offre sur les vins du Millésime 2013

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Dernière offre sur les vins du Millésime 2013

En ce début d'année 2016 les vins du millésime 2013 en vente s'épuisent doucement mais quelques caisses de vins restent à vendre et nous serions très heureux de vous compter parmi nos nouveaux clients dans les appellations suivantes, selon les prix TTC indiqués:

Bourgogne Aligoté Sous le Chemin 2013 - 9 euros

Meursault Vieilles Vignes 2013 - 28 euros

Chassagne-Montrachet Romanée 2013 - 41 euros

Puligny-Montrachet Le Cailleret 2013 - 52 euros

Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 2013 - 40 euros

Volnay-Santenots 2013 - 37 euros

Evidemment commander une caisse de 12 bouteilles permettra aux nouveaux allocataires d'acquérir des 2014 à partir de Mars 2016 et des 2015 à partir de Mars 2017.

Contact: dombuissoncharles@wanadoo.fr

Heureuse année à tous,

Patrick Essa

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Millésime 2015

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Pourquoi les Meursault de Buisson-Charles n'ont pas été coupés avant le 6 Septembre


Cette année 2015 est une année quasiment bénie. Un printemps alternant petite pluie et soleil régulier dès le mois d'Avril puis une vie végétative homogène parfaitement saine et enfin un débourrement mesuré. Ensuite, en l'absence de toute maladie, la floraison s'est déroulée rapidement et uniformément dans les deux couleurs sous une intense chaleur. Ce temps ensoleillé commença le 23 Mai pour se poursuivre quasiment jusqu'aux premiers jours des vendanges.
La floraison annonçait des récoltes possibles aux abords du 8/10 Septembre selon un temps médian et d'après le fort pertinent repère des 100 jours la suivant pour récolter. Dès ce moment là, la seule crainte nous habitant était que "le ciel nous tombe sur la tête".Hors si les hautes chaleurs nous firent craindre orages et grêles, nous fûmes obligés de constater que les précipitations furent rares, voire - et ce fut la seule inquiétude du vigneron - un peu trop espacées sur un temps chaud et sec. Cependant si Juillet fut caniculaire, dès le début d'Aout, 70 millimètres de pluie nous renvoyèrent directement à un potentiel de très grande année. Ce superlatif qualifiant n'étant pas ici écrit avec légèreté. Soyons clair.
Dès le 15 Août notre potentiel lié aux caractères des raisins était parfaitement identifié: ils seraient concentrés, marqués par des pellicules épaisses, de très belles acidités tartriques, un potassium médian ET en raison de la chaleur et des fortes insolations, une acidité malique modérée. Il n'y avait dès ce moment aucune possibilité de jouer sur la variation du paramètre acide qui s'accompagnerait automatiquement d'un PH plus elevé qu'en 2013 et 2014, d'une acidité totale - on verra plus loin que ce n'est pas un réel problème - plus faible mais en revanche d'extraits secs extraordinaires dans nos vignes peu chargées.


Dès lors deux paramètres nous ont conduit à positionner nos dates de récoltes:


1/ couper une fois la vraie maturité phénolique obtenue en évitant absolument de chaptaliser les moûts et viser 13-13,2 degrés naturels en l'absence de tout botrytis.

2/ considérer que la dégustation des baies - doublées de valeurs prisent au réfractomètre - devait être réfléchie autour de l'amertume, de la maturité des peaux et des pépins en admettant qu'elles seraient de toute manière peu vives au goût car la valeur malique est moyenne. Cette sensation première ne devant aucunement obérer les superbes acidités tartriques.


   En fonction de ces observations forts simples j'ai opéré des relevés réguliers sur mes crus qui tous en cette fin Août me signifient que mes raisins etaient encore en phase de charge de sucre, commençant à peine à dorer et amplifiant chaque jour leurs potentiels aromatiques.
Les pinots qui étaient en avance furent quasiment rejoints par les chardonnays et les deux cépages purent encore augmenter leur proportion de jus grâce aux pluies tombées au tout début de Septembre. Grâce à celles-ci nous avons atteind je crois la perfection faites chardonnay et pinot à partir du 5 Septembre. Le temps que les baies reconcentrent un poil leurs jus et complexifient leurs arômes .
   Bien entendu ces pluies du 1/2 Septembre auraient pu être accompagnées d'orages, bien entendu un coup de grêle aurait toujours été possible et nous aurions été alors perdants d'avoir osé prendre tous les risques pour tenter de rentrer les plus grands raisins du 21 ieme siècle...
...Mais il n'etait pas envisageable de ne pas tout faire pour tutoyer les sommets car cette possibilité là se présente peut être trois fois dans une vie.

   Nous avons coupé les rouges le 5 et le 6 Septembre et les blancs du 6 au 11 Septembre. Les fûts d'élite sont là, une nouvelle cuverie a été achetée cet Été et la cave voûtée s'est agrandie. Les vinifications débutent bien.. 2015:
De bonnes vibrations...

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Comment est le millésime 2015 après 15 jours de vinification?

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Comment est le millésime 2015 après 15 jours de vinification?

Les blancs de Meursault, Chassagne, Puligny,Chablis et Charlemagne, vinifiés par le domaine (dont je m'occupe), fermentent selon un rythme régulier et les arômes qu'ils dégagent sont enthousiasmants!
Le fait de les avoir coupés à partir du 6 Septembre - très tardivement dans le contexte 2015 de Meursault - leur à apporté plus de fraîcheur et de superbes acidités - entre 3,14 et 3,23 de PH - et surtout une complexité initiale rarement observée à ce stade. Ajoutez à cela des niveaux d'alcool idéaux - entre 12,9 et13,3 - et vous aurez un juste aperçu de ce millésime quasi parfait...qu'il fallait savoir attendre!
2015 est un millésime de blanc qui s'annonce - pour nos vins - sur le plan stylistique dans la lignée des "seigneurs" en 9: 2009,1999,1989,1979,1959 et 1929.

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Nos 2013 évalués par Allen Meadows de Burghound.com

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"As the scores and commentaries confirm, Buisson-Charles made superb wines" Allen Meadows

www.burghound.com

Les scores d'Allen Meadows de Burghound.com pour nos vins du millésime 2013 sont sortis:


2013 Bourgogne-Aligoté “Sous Le Chemin” 86


2013 Bourgogne “Hautes Coutures” 86


2013 Chablis – Vaudésir Grand Cru 90


2013 Chassagne-Montrachet “En Remilly” 91


2013 Chassagne-Montrachet “La Romanée” 92


2013 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 93


2013 Meursault Vieilles Vignes 89


2013 Meursault “Bouches Chères” 1er 93


2013 Meursault “Charmes du Dessus” 1er 92


2013 Meursault “Les Cras” 1er 91


2013 Meursault “Goutte d’Or” 1er 92


2013 Meursault “Tessons” 89


2013 Puligny-Montrachet “Les Caillerets”1er 92


"As the scores and commentaries confirm, Buisson-Charles made superb wines" Allen Meadows


www.burghound.com

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Sarah Marsh évalue le millésime 2013

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Sarah Marsh évalue le millésime 2013
Patrick Essa explains: “We have a later harvest with a good maturity without botrytis and well
balanced in acidity.

“I started with the reds 28th and whites on the 1st. Finished on the 5th. Always one week for the harvest with 20 people and 7 hectares.”

“In the Volnay section we had hail in 2 vineyards in Les Cras and the old vines Meursault. No hail in Pommard as we were in the north part on the slope.

"60-70% of a usual harvest, small but not dramatic...we had some problems with flowering in June, but only on the Volnay side and on the slopes for premier cru, but not for the village. Here the production was normal.”

"For this vintage I needed no sugar as all the wines were naturally between 12.6 and 13.2. We had a high level of tartaric acidity TA 6.2g/l.” All the wines had more tartaric than malic. In Patrick’s book..for example the Bourgogne was 2/3 and the others about 60/40.

For the first time he harvested in cases of 20 kilos - a table de tries in the vineyards and no foulage. All whole bunch.

“I feel this now preserves a finer aroma.”

"With the selection table you get such clean grapes and after you can use the totality of the lees...so we do a debourbage, but after this I use the totality of the less in this vintage...if you have lots of lees (clean) you can get a wine with more density. It’s not possible in all vintages.” !

“I used to make wine with a more Cistercian character and it was difficult to explain to customers why it was closed in early life. Now I use barrels for the village as the premier cru. So the wine is more expressive and easier to drink young. I want them to be able to drink it from 3-5 years.”

All finished MLF except the Aligote. I tasted in one or two year old barrels, but the final cuvees will have 20% new oak.

“The vintage is a mix of 2011 and 2010. It’s a good vintage,” remarks Patrick. !“I think you drink the 2013 before the 2012..2012 is a vintage for tomorrow.”

Bourgogne Aligoté 70 year old vines. Only in barrel - for the second time and next year he will have a Chassagne barrel of two years. To obtain more concentration with the lees, he uses batonage on the Aligote, but on this alone. A fresh, lemony, Aligote with good ripeness. Really quite a rich texture for Aligote and very nicely fresh on the finish. He adds, “It is an Aligote with a Meursault character. Aligote in Meursault very different to other villages.”

Bourgogne Aligoté, 2102 Rich marzipan and ripe lemons. Lovely nose. Rich texture to this generous palate. Almond and flowers. Spicy on the finish. Just delicious!

Bourgogne, Hautes Coutures Very pleasing, rounded Bourgogne. Fresh acidity. Lemon fruit and a touch of peach. It finishes on a fruity note. Another very good regional wine.

!Bourgogne, Hautes Coutures 2012 Nicely rounded and juicy. It’s richer than the 2013. Rounded and full. Richly fruity finish. just 900 bottles. “I have sold out. It is just a marginal production for me”....I think I may prefer the 2013

!*Meursault, Vieilles Vignes 10,000 bottles of the wines. Generally 15,000. Vireuils and Meix Cheveaux and Milland and the most important part is Pellans. This is rounded and generous. Plenty of fruit. Succulent peachy mid palate; and on the finish it has freshness and tight a tight quiver of mineral at the very end. He has achieved some fresh acidity under the palate here. Score 16 !Meursault, Vieilles Vignes 2012 This has the trademark 2012 confit de lemon character (25hl/ha). Rich and viscous; good depth and density to the palate. Powerful, straight finish. There is so much matter in the mid palate. It’s very rich. !*Meursault, Les Tessons 1/3 of a hectare in the southern part of the vineyards, “rockier soil with red soil,” says Patrick, The MLF has not finished, but almost. TA 6.1 with 5.2 tartaric and 4 for malic and 13 degrees - “for me a perfect analysis,” says Patrick. Silky texture; generous, juicy, so textural. This is glassy and generous with fresh acidity, pure and straight. It has energy. Purity and minerality combine with delightful citrus fruit on the finish. Score 17 !5 barrels of one year old, “it is better for Tessons.” !Meursault, Les Tessons 2012 Only 4 barrels of this. It is glossy and rich and the acidity comes though under the palate. Concentrated citrus fruit. The 2013 shows a better balance. The minerality does not come through, but maybe with time as it slims down. !Chassagne- Montrachet - La Romanee Negoce: 5 barrels. Very lifted, pure and direct. An energetic palate; nicely edged and very straight and tense; pure on the finish. “for me this is my favourite vineyard in Chassagne.” Score 17. !*Puligny-Montrachet; Les Caillerets Negoce: a little vineyard next demoiselles. The first time he has done this. This is my press and debourbage and I give some direction in the vineyard.” Stony and reserved aroma; with a touch floral... it is silky textured, supple and aromatic and pure and rippling. Fine texture. Tightens to a straight mineral finish though. It is intense and pure at the end. A wine with some finesses. Score 18.85. From 2017 !*Meursault, Charmes Upper part, just under Perrières. Twenty year old vineyards. Tiny production. Silky texture He works on the lees to emphasise the tension. It has white peach fruit with delicacy and succulence. Floral notes here too. This is a very elegant Charmes with a finesses and minerality at the end. Score 18.5.. From 2017 !

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Les analyses et scores d'Allen Meadows - Burghound.com - pour les 2012 de Buisson-Charles

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Allen Meadows apprécie nos vins depuis le millésime 2004. Pour la neuvième fois il a donc évalué nos vins avec une rigueur et un sens de la probité qui l'honore. En moyenne - et pour tous les domaines - il reste prudent sur la qualité ultime de ce millésime qu'il juge très concentré et un peu fermé et qui selon lui réclame du temps. Je partage son point de vue et vous invite à lire les éléments qu'il a retenu de notre " vision de ce millésime 2012 " lors de l'après midi qu'il a passé chez nous au début de Février 2014.

Les vins étaient alors en bouteilles depuis deux semaines.

This 5.5 ha domaine, of which 25% of its production is in red, is directed by 4th generation Michel Buisson, his daughter Catherine and son-in-law Patrick Essa. Essa told me that the 2012 “growing season started early and initially we thought that we might have another 2007 or 2011 on our hands as there were incipient leaves on the vines by the first week of April. The reflex of a vigneron is always to be making harvest calculations, and based on these first leaves we could have started picking by the first of September. Besides I would sign up immediately at the prospect of making another 2011! April though was essentially a period of successive rain storms and cool winds which served to retard the development of the vegetation. It was as though in a very short period we had gone from the style of a precocious vintage to one that was late developing. What further complicated matters was the intense mildew pressure which was the strongest we had seen in some years. And when the vineyards were as wet as they were it’s difficult to treat as the tractors slip in the wet soil and you risk killing vines or worse injuring the operators. One can of course always treat manually with tanks carried on the back but this is very tough work not to mention slow. There was frost in certain sectors but our vineyards were spared as the worst of it hit primarily the lower parts of Chassagne and Santenay. We saw the first flowers in the chardonnay vines around the first of June and a week later for the pinot. Using the traditional 100 day rule meant that we would probably begin picking somewhere between the 11th and 20th of September. Still I couldn’t help but wonder if more surprises were in store because during all of this time the weather still hadn’t settled into a pattern and that always makes me nervous. The weather hadn’t cooperated during the flowering either which meant that there was plenty of shatter. It was worse for the pinot than the chardonnay because the latter had begun the flowering a week earlier but it would be fair to say that both varieties were perturbed and yields were necessarily going to be negatively affected as a result. My instincts about the unstable weather bringing more surprises proved prescient as we had the first of two major hail storms on the 30th of June that left all of us in a state of shock and obviously further reduced yields. It was a vicious storm with hail stones that varied in size from quail eggs to small golf balls that shredded the leaves and nicked many of the tiny berries that would never mature afterwards. To this point in the cycle it was the worst weather the Côte de Beaune had seen since at least 1998. Then the oidium arrived and the mildew was still with us so there was no letup in terms of being constantly in the vineyards. The worst hit were Monthelie, Pommard, Volnay and the northern side of Meursault so some of our vines were hard hit. Despite the fact that the hail was early and thus there would be ample time for the vines to recover in order to adequately ripen the remaining fruit, what remained in the back of our minds was just how much sorting was going to be required at the harvest! Then on the first of August there was another serious hail storm that hit the white wine vineyards hardest. Finally we began a relatively calm period of warm temperatures and stable weather that allowed what little fruit remained to arrive at very good maturity levels. But rain was forecast for the 22nd of September and we had to make a hard decision as to whether to pick fruit that was not entirely ripe under good conditions or harvest ripe fruit under poor conditions? I was guided by the old adage that it’s better to harvest ripe fruit under poor conditions than the reverse. The fruit was very clean as there was no botrytis [rot] at all and the yields for the 1ers were between 15 and 25 hl/ha while the villages wines were in the 28 to 37 hl/ha range, which considering everything that happened during the growing season really isn’t all that bad. The only exception to all of this was the Volnay Santenots which we harvested on the 17th of September as the tiny yields allowed the fruit to ripen before the other vineyards. Unfortunately we made only 750 bottles rather than our usual 1800. While there wasn’t a lot of fruit it was both ripe and clean and ultimately I am very happy with the quality of the 2012s. They are dense and powerful and remind me quite a bit of the 2005s.” (Vintner Select, www.vintnerselect.com, Cincinnati, OH, Milton Road Trading Corp, LLC, www.miltonroadtrading.com, Napa CA, Scott Paul Wines, www.scottpaul.com, Portland, OR, Martine’s Wines, www.martineswines.com, Novato, CA, Import Wines, Middleton, WI, Old World Importing, Inc., www.oldworldimporting.com, Eagle, CO; Flint Wines, www.flintwines.com, Latimer Vintners, www.latimervintners.com, and Roberson Wine, www.roberson.co.uk, Anthony Sarjeant, all UK).











2012 Bourgogne-Aligoté: An exceptionally fresh and spicy nose of mostly pear and citrus scents leads to energetic and well- detailed middle weight flavors that terminate in a saline-inflected, clean, dry and utterly delicious finish. It’s relatively rare to find Aligoté at this quality level and this is definitely recommended if your taste runs to this variety. 87/2016+











2012 Bourgogne – Hautes Coutures: A subtle touch of wood sets off the ripe and equally fresh aromas of pear, white peach and apple. There is good verve and reasonably good detail to the medium weight flavors that possess good flesh and volume on the agreeably dry and balanced finish. While pretty, this doesn’t quite have the overall sense of vibrancy and refreshing quality of the Aligoté. 86/2016+

2012 Meursault Vieilles Vignes: Here the nose is actually similar to that of the Bourgogne though in this case there is enough yellow orchard fruit character present to remark upon. There is excellent volume and mid-palate concentration to the extract-rich, lush, indeed even opulent medium-bodied flavors that possess an unctuous mouth feel, all wrapped in a balanced and lingering finish. This is a big Meursault villages that manages to keep everything in proportion and as such should drink well young if desired. 88/2017+





2012 Meursault “Tessons”: (from vines planted in 1964 and aged in 20% new wood). A background note of pain grillé frames notably ripe and well-layered aromas of essence of dried yellow orchard fruit that evidences hints of lemon and mandarin orange peel. This is also impressively dense and overtly powerful with muscular medium weight flavors that possess an opulent mouth feel before concluding in a palate coating finish. Like the old vines cuvée this will be approachable young but should also reward 4 to 6 years of cellaring too. 89/2017+





2012 Chassagne-Montrachet “En Remilly”: There is a trace of exoticism to the white peach, nectarine and dried apricot aromas. There is excellent volume to the big-bodied, concentrated and well-muscled flavors that brim with dry extract that imparts a seductive mouth feel to the lightly mineral-inflected finale. This is a study in contrasts as there is a natural sweetness to the mid-palate yet the backend is every so mildly austere though I doubt that this will persist for more than a year or so as this is notably ripe. 90/2017+





2012 Meursault “Les Cras”: (from yields of only 15 hl/ha). This is quite closed and inexpressive and only aggressive swirling liberates ripe and fresh aromas of yellow orchard fruit that flirt with an exotic character. There is outstanding richness and concentration to the full-bodied and overtly powerful medium-bodied flavors that possess an abundance of dry extract that imparts a lush mouth feel to the thick and opulent finale that is ever-so-slightly sweet. Some will like this for its sheer decadence but some may find it atypical. 90/2017+





2012 Meursault “Charmes”: This is aromatically more elegant than the Les Cras with its layered and perfumed mélange of white and yellow orchard fruit, acacia blossom and soft anise nuances. There is the same excellent richness but consistent with the refinement suggested by the nose, there is more elegance to the mouth feel as well, all wrapped in a silky, clean, pure and faultlessly well-balanced finish. Lovely and very Charmes in style. 92/2018+





2012 Meursault “Bouches Chères”: (note that the domaine uses the old spelling for Bouchères). This is quite discreet with only barely perceptible cool and ultra-elegant wisps of almost delicate pear, peach and apricot aromas presently visible. There is plenty of verve to the detailed and softly mineral-inflected flavors that terminate in a balanced if less complex finish. I prefer this stylistically to both the Les Cras and Charmes but it doesn’t quite have the sheer depth of the latter. 91/2018+





2012 Meursault “Goutte d’Or”: As is usually the case this is less aromatically refined but more complex and more expressive with its full-on nose of dried peach, apricot, pear, floral and spice hints. There is fine concentration to the intense and powerful medium-bodied flavors that brim with dry extract before concluding in palate coating, clean, dry and beautifully balanced finish. This is a big but harmonious effort that should amply reward extended cellaring. 93/2019+





2012 Chablis – Vaudésir: A ripe and attractively fresh nose offers up notes of iodine, sea breeze and algae on the white and yellow fruit dominated nose. I very much like the pronounced sense of energy to the broad-shouldered, saline and mineral- inflected flavors that display moderate austerity on the impressively persistent finish. This is a big wine but there is plenty of acid support to maintain the proper balance. Lovely and very Vaudésir in character. 92/2018+

Je suis très heureux d'observer que nos cuvées de Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet et Chablis grand cru, signées Buisson-Charles, obtiennent certains des meilleurs scores du millésime 2012 chez Allen Meadows de Burghound.com

Patrick Essa - Winemaker

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Les nouveaux bouchons sont là...

Publié le par Site internet officiel du Domaine Buisson-Charles

Les nouveaux bouchons sont là...
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Les 2013 de Buisson-Charles évalués par Bill Nanson de Burgundy Report

Publié le par Site internet officiel du Domaine Buisson-Charles

Les journalistes évaluent nos vins avec constance et professionnalisme et à chaque fois j'ai l'impression de passer un "partiel" sur le millésime en cours!
Le Burgundy Report de Maître Bill Nanson - un type vraiment humain et sensible - fait partie des incontournables désormais car son boulot est phénoménal. Voici ce qu'il écrit sur les 2013 du domaine:

Domaine Buisson-Charles 3 Rue de la Velle 21190 Meursault Tel: +33 3 80 21 22 32 +33 3 80 21 22 32
It was my last visit of the day and Pat was looking pretty tired – he’d made the last of the ‘decuvages’ of his 2014s that day – and as anyone who has done it, or even just watched it(!) can attest, it is hard work!

Pat on 2013: “I’m very happy with the quality, but it’s a shame about the quantity; it’s another very small vintage.”

The wines…
Pat says that he used about 20% new oak across the whole range of wines, he also notes that fruit ripeness was perfect “I didn’t need a gram of sugar in 2013″ he says. You may note that Pat has gathered some interesting small volume purchases amongst his usual range of wines.

2013 Bourgogne Aligoté A small harvest with 12.5° natural and no rot. Was fermented in barrel and is now in tank. A soft and smooth nose. A fresh palate, faintly textured with CO , but the flavour shines through. I don’t really buy aligoté but this is one that might tempt me.

2013 Bourgogne Chardonnay From vines with the boundaries of Meursault. This is a fresh and beautifully clean nose. A wine that delivers an extra fizz of flavour dimension; flavour that lasts very well in the slowly lingering finish.

2013 Meursault Vieilles-Vignes A beautiful, picture-perfect Meursault nose. Super concentration with a real after-shock of flavour beyond the mid- palate. As usual a lovely, textbook wine from this domaine.

2013 Meursault Tessons Racked before harvest – there should be 8 barrels from a normal harvest – this year only 4. As a test, Patrick has used no new oak for this wine. A modest, but perfectly formed nose. Beautiful, mouth-watering acidity and gorgeousness of flavour. Excellent.

2013 Meursault 1er Cras Even worse hail damage than the Tessons here – just two barrels, instead of six. Short notes for great wine. Beautiful. Clarity and balance before a concentration of flavour – everything in its place…

2013 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir The nose is obviously more mineral, and shows a lime-skin character. Quite big and round but with a very fine base of acidity. Lovely wine – and no new oak again.

2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Romanée A forward, classic, herby Chassagne nose. Lithe and mineral in the mouth, the flavour coating all available surfaces. Long and fine.

2013 Meursault 1er Les Charmes What a difference to the Chassagne, a return to a classic Meursault nose of faintly spiced bread. This wine displays a faint CO petillance but also width and concentration. The flavour is fine and growing and mouth-watering. Gorgeous.

2013 Meursault 1er Bouches Chères Here the nose is more modest, if fine and smooth. Powerful yet transparent in the mouth – the flavour welling from the core. Beautiful.

2013 Meursault 1er Goutte d’Or Another modest, faintly tight nose. Fuller and rounder in the mouth – but with very fine balance.

2013 Corton-Charlemagne Made from Aloxe fruit. The nose isn’t particularly wide but it’s certainly deep and quite ripe. Full in the mouth with a ripe core. Lovely acidity but
clearly a very different animal to the wines of Meursault – actually quite a perfumed flavour. Yum!

2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets A wide, very pretty, slightly floral nose. Lots of balanced concentration – a much more elegant wine after the Corton- Charlemagne.

The reds…

2013 Bourgogne Rouge Made with 50% whole clusters. Here is a high-toned nose that includes plenty of floral references. Slowly some flowers on the palate too, but too much gas to say anything constructive here – despite the very nice fruit.

2013 Pommard En Chiveau This wine even smells a little gassy, but has nice fruit. Again plenty of CO but it’s easy to discern a higher level of tannin and concentration. The last drops in the glass smell very classy indeed.

2013 Volnay 1er Les Santenots 100% whole-cluster fermentation, the fruit from 70 year-old vines. The nose is a little reduced but the there is depth, almost texture and some fine floral notes. Lots of gas again, but there is power, intensity yet some delicacy too. This will be super.

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Le domaine parmi les meilleurs producteurs de vins blancs de Bourgogne pour la RVF

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Le domaine parmi les meilleurs producteurs de vins blancs de Bourgogne pour la RVF

Intégrer le top 50 des meilleurs domaines bourguignons produisant des vins blancs a été pour nous une heureuse nouvelle. Le fait que cela soit publié par une revue aussi sérieuse que la RVF renforce nos convictions et notre désir de rechercher toujours plus avant la haute qualité d'expression de nos terroirs.

Patrick Essa privilégie avec talent la précision du fruit et l'équilibre des élevages, toujours discrets.

Olivier POELS - journaliste à la RVF

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Le Meursault Goutte d'Or 2012 dans la RVF de Décembre 2014

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Le Meursault Goutte d'Or 2012 dans la RVF de Décembre 2014

Nous sommes très heureux d'observer notre vin parmi les meilleurs du millésime 2012 et à un prix raisonnable...

Nous souhaitons rester accessible aux clients français et européens en proposant des prix "départ propriété" non prohibitifs.

Patrick Essa - vinificateur

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Nos 2013 en revue

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Avec sa gamme de plus en plus complète, le domaine Buisson-Charles offre à l’amateur une promenade inoubliable parmi les crus d’exception de la Côte de Beaune…une visite indispensable pour un picoleur « bourguignomane » de mon acabit !

Pierre Radmacher

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Journal de vendanges 2014: j1 Samedi 13 Septembre

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Les vendanges 2014 ont commencé sous le beau temps. Nous avons commencé de couper ce Samedi 13 Septembre Le Volnay Santenots. Il titre 12,6 degrés au mustimètre, une bonne valeur. Nous avons récolté le poids de trois pièces de vin dans nos 30 ares ce qui va sans doute donner un rendement de de 6,84 hl dans 30 ares soit environ 23 hl de rendement naturel pour un hectare. Le tri a été nécessaire pour écarter les raisins touchés par la grêle du 28 Juin et au final nous pouvons observer une très petite récolte sans botrytis, avec des raisins millerandés et de maturité froide. Ce ne sont pas des fruits parfaits car un demi degré en plus aurait été préférable mais nous sommes assez loin d'une année faible. Je dirais un joli potentiel et des vins très certainement concentrés et aromatiques. Voir...

L'équipe engagée est efficace et se compose de 12 coupeurs, 4 trieurs sur la table de tri située dans la vigne et trois personnes aux vinifications en cuverie. Pour la troisième année les raisins blancs et rouges seront rentrés en petites caisses de 25/30 kg.

L'année ayant été grêlée je n'ai pas choisi de vinifier en vendanges entières. Tout a donc été éraflé soigneusement avec la ferme volonté de préserver les baies intactes. Une dose assez mesurée de SO 2 a été incorporée à la cuve car le raison était sain et les peaux épaisses.

Nous sommes parti pour une petite semaine de macération à froid aux abords de 9/10 degrés.

Journal de vendanges 2014: j1 Samedi 13 Septembre
Journal de vendanges 2014: j1 Samedi 13 Septembre
Journal de vendanges 2014: j1 Samedi 13 Septembre
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Guide Vert 2015 Revue des vins de France

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Guide Vert 2015 Revue des vins de France
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La plante de Bourgogne blanc en pleine forme!

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La plante de Bourgogne blanc en pleine forme!

Positionnée à la fin Avril de cette année notre plante de Bourgogne blanc s'épanouit bien et semble ne pas avoir souffert des différents aléas climatiques de l'année.

Plantée serrée avec des plants de chardonnay très fins, elle devrait livrer ses premiers petits fruits en 2016 et entrer en production en 2017.

Bourgogne- Côte d'Or "En Magny" sera son nom...

La plante de Bourgogne blanc en pleine forme!
La plante de Bourgogne blanc en pleine forme!

Produire un Bourgogne blanc "générique" sur la base de 6/8 grappes maximum par ceps... Voilà l'objectif

Patrick Essa

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Garde et service après vente

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Garde et service après vente

Le domaine comme toutes les maisons sérieuses assume le suivi après vente de ses bouteilles et souhaite pouvoir aider un de ses clients se trouvant face à une bouteille bouchonnée ou défectueuse. Très rarement des bouteilles nous sont signalées non conforme à la qualité du cru car altérée par le liège ou porteuse d'une évolution rapide. Nous échangeons celle ci lorsque les vins ont moins de six ans et que le bouchon nous est envoyé ou rapporté. Nous ne pouvons aller plus loin dans le temps car les lieux de stockages ne peuvent être sous notre contrôle.

Cela dit ce Meursault Goutte d'Or 2008 a devant lui de nombreuses années de garde possible tant il s'est montré frais et impeccablement équilibré hier...

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Palettes en partance pour nos marchés à l'export

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Palettes en partance pour nos marchés à l'export
Palettes en partance pour nos marchés à l'export

États-Unis, Luxembourg,Australie,Québec.Angleterre...les commandes partent ou se préparent en ce moment

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Le Bourgogne Aligoté 2011 à l'honneur

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Le Bourgogne Aligoté 2011 à l'honneur
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Une dégustation de notre Bourgogne rouge 2009 par Bill Nanson

Publié le par Site internet officiel du Domaine Buisson-Charles

Bill Nanson s'est régalé avec notre Bourgogne rouge 2009. Note de dégustation dans son remarquable site internet, Burgundy Report:

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Accoler et aligner les branches qui poussent et début de la fleur...

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Accoler et aligner les branches qui poussent et début de la fleur...Accoler et aligner les branches qui poussent et début de la fleur...
Accoler et aligner les branches qui poussent et début de la fleur...
Accoler et aligner les branches qui poussent et début de la fleur...Accoler et aligner les branches qui poussent et début de la fleur...

Les vignes poussent bien, le temps est sec , les maladies absentes et les charges de raisins sont idéales pour ce millésime 2014. Un bon début!

Patrick Essa

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Ébourgeonnage: jeu de mains...

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Ébourgeonnage: jeu de mains...

Avril arrive, les bourgeons sortent et les branches s'étirent doucement en suivant l'astre lumineux dans sa course contre le froid. Ces vertes naissances, si fragiles, si graciles, ont besoin de mains agiles pour parfaire leurs pousses en lissant les cils qui pointent de leurs yeux duveteux.

À mâtine humide, le tâcheron plié en deux hume les odeurs fines qui mêlent iode, accents feuillus et terres mouillées. Sa peau ressent le feulement des petites branches animées par le vent d'Ouest, elles lèchent son avant-bras et caressent ses poignets qui plongent avec délectation dans cette petite forêt de verdure qu'il va falloir éclaircir. Le regard aiguisé précède ce geste sec qui casse la bourre inutile et préserve celle chargée de fruits, puis, avec une précision d'orfèvre les doigts poursuivent leur œuvre en équilibrant le cep sauvage pour lui préserver sa fougue en la transmettant aux raisins.

Labeur cent fois, mille fois répété, ouvrage éprouvant et minutieux qui autorise par moment un regard arrière motivant qui mêle admiration pour un rège rectiligne et satisfaction de la tâche accomplie sans que jamais cet égoïsme là ne soit diffusé. Plaisir simple et humain du travailleur solitaire soumis aux éléments climatiques.

Plus tard, repassant observer la qualité de son ouvrage et le reprenant pour l'affiner, il découvrira les réponses naturelles que ses actes auront enclenchés. Bourgeons devenus branches, raisins étalés ou serrés, végétation aérées ou entre-mêlées, les actes trouveront alors une résonance qui à coup sûr sauront le faire réfléchir... Tout en lui donnant encore un peu plus cet amour du beau et du bon!



Jeu de mains... Jeu pour demain!

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Comprendre les vins de Chassagne-Montrachet

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Comprendre les vins de Chassagne-Montrachet

J'aime vinifier et élever les Chassagne-Montrachet mais qu'en est-il de ce vignoble? Patrick Essa

Analyse du vignoble de Chassagne

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Dîner de gala à Luzerne ( Suisse ) avec les vins du domaine

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Un excellent "dîner dégustation" chez Pony en Suisse du côté de Luzerne grâce à Alex Nussbaumer notre importateur depuis dix ans.

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Verticale de Meursault Bouches-Chères du domaine Buisson-Charles de 2010 à 1996

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Les commentaires du duo Suisse italien Buloncelli/Ghisletta sont les plus sérieux du monde italophone pour les vins de Bourgogne - Patrick Essa

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